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Edinburgh welcomed us with a chilly embrace on our first morning – the kind of cold that seeps into your bones despite layers of clothing. The cloudy skies painted the city in a different light compared to our arrival the previous night, revealing a landscape of gothic spires and historic stone buildings that seemed to tell stories from centuries past.
After our incredible train journey from London to Edinburgh, we were eager to start exploring this magnificent Scottish city. Little did I know that an unplanned detour would lead us to one of the most breathtaking cathedrals I’ve ever visited.
In this blog post, I’ll take you through our accidental discovery of St Mary’s Cathedral and why it should absolutely be on your Edinburgh itinerary.
Navigating Edinburgh’s Transport: A Mini-Adventure
First things first – figuring out transportation in a new city is always part of the adventure! If you’ve been following my travels, you know I’m a big advocate for getting local transit cards wherever I go – whether it’s navigating the Metro in Paris or hopping on the subway in New York.
Edinburgh would be no different… or so I thought. We left our cosy B&B and headed to the nearest tram station, confidently boarding the first tram that arrived. We looked around for a place to tap our cards, but couldn’t find any validation machines. Before we knew it, the tram started moving.
The conductor appeared a few minutes later, asking for tickets. “We’re just visiting and weren’t sure where to buy tickets…” I tried explaining.
He realised we were new to the city. “You cannot board the tram without a ticket,” he explained firmly but kindly. “You can either get off at the next stop and purchase a ticket, or pay a 10-pound fine.“
Well, that was an easy decision! We hopped off at the next station and quickly purchased day passes for 5 pounds each – not bad for unlimited travel on buses and trams throughout the city. The only downside was that they came as paper tickets rather than convenient plastic cards. If you’re visiting Edinburgh, learn from our mistake and always buy your ticket before boarding!
A Majestic Detour: First Glimpse of St Mary’s Cathedral
We hopped on the next tram heading toward our planned breakfast spot. As we travelled through the city, something magnificent caught my eye through the window – a towering Gothic cathedral with intricate spires reaching toward the cloudy Scottish sky.
The cathedral wasn’t on our itinerary, but there was something about it that demanded attention. We decided to have our breakfast first and then investigate this majestic structure.
Fun historical fact: Edinburgh is home to several incredible churches and cathedrals, dating back centuries. The city’s religious architecture reflects its rich history spanning from medieval times through the Scottish Reformation and beyond – each building telling a unique chapter in Scotland’s complex religious history.
Post our breakfast (more about it in a later post), we made our way toward the cathedral we’d spotted earlier. With each step, it seemed to grow more imposing and beautiful. Dating back to the late 19th century, St Mary’s Cathedral is actually relatively young compared to many European cathedrals, but no less breathtaking.
The cathedral was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, one of Britain’s most prolific Victorian architects, and construction began in 1874. It stands as Scotland’s largest cathedral and an exceptional example of Gothic Revival architecture – those distinctive pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses that make medieval cathedrals so distinctive.
Inside St Mary’s Cathedral: A Journey Through Gothic Splendour
Stepping through the enormous wooden doors was like entering another world. The temperature dropped several degrees, and a reverent hush fell over us as we took in the soaring vaulted ceilings and the way light filtered through the magnificent stained glass windows, creating patterns of colored light across the stone floors.
The cathedral’s interior stretches 270 feet from east to west, with a nave that can hold over 1,000 people. The sense of scale is humbling – exactly as the Victorian architects intended. Gothic cathedrals were designed to make humans feel small in the presence of the divine, and St Mary’s achieves this beautifully.
One of the most remarkable features is the massive pipe organ. Built by Henry Willis & Sons in 1879, it was once the largest in Scotland and remains one of the finest in the country. With over 4,000 pipes ranging from pencil-sized to massive 32-foot behemoths, it’s an impressive musical instrument and a stunning architectural feature. During our visit, someone was practising, filling the cathedral with haunting, ethereal music that perfectly complemented the sacred space.
What makes St Mary’s truly special isn’t just its architecture or history, but the fact that it remains an active place of worship and community. The cathedral hosts daily services, concerts, and community events. Its choir, founded in 1879, continues to perform regularly and has an international reputation for excellence.
The Gift of Words Box
In a quiet corner of the cathedral, I discovered something that moved me deeply – a simple wooden box labelled “Gift Of Words” Beside it were cards and pens, with a small sign explaining that visitors could write a positive thought, prayer, or bible verse and place it in the box for others to find, or take one left by someone else.
Curious, I reached into the box and pulled out a small card. Written in neat handwriting were the words: “Be like water, just go with the flow.”
Such a simple yet powerful message – and exactly what I needed to hear on our somewhat chaotic first day in Edinburgh. It reminded me that sometimes the best travel experiences come from the unexpected detours and unplanned discoveries, like this magnificent cathedral we’d stumbled upon by chance.
Why St Mary’s Cathedral Should Be on Your Edinburgh Itinerary
Edinburgh is filled with incredible attractions – from the famous castle to the Royal Mile – but St Mary’s Cathedral deserves a spot on your must-visit list. Here’s why:
First, it offers a different perspective on Edinburgh’s religious history compared to the more famous St Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile. While St Giles’ is associated with the Church of Scotland and Presbyterian history, St Mary’s represents the Episcopal tradition.
Second, its location in Edinburgh’s West End means it’s slightly off the beaten tourist path, giving you a chance to explore a different neighbourhood while escaping the crowds that pack the Old Town attractions.
Practical Information for Visiting St Mary’s Cathedral
If you’re planning to visit St Mary’s during your Edinburgh trip, here are some helpful details:
- Location: Palmerston Place, Edinburgh EH12 5AW
- Opening Hours: Generally open daily for visitors between 8:30 AM and 6:30 PM, though times may vary
- Admission: Free, though donations are appreciated
- Transportation: Easily accessible by Edinburgh’s tram system – West End station (just buy your ticket first!) or a short walk from Haymarket Station
- Photography: Allowed in most areas, but be respectful during services
The cathedral hosts regular guided tours that provide fascinating insights into the building’s history, architecture, and spiritual significance. These are well worth joining if you have the time.
Conclusion: Edinburgh’s Gothic Masterpiece
Our accidental discovery of St Mary’s Cathedral became one of the highlights of our Edinburgh adventure. From its soaring spires to the peaceful interior and the touching gift of words box, it embodied everything I love about travel – those unexpected moments of beauty and connection that stay with you long after you’ve returned home.
If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh, I highly recommend making time for St Mary’s Cathedral. Even if you’re not particularly interested in religious history or architecture, the sheer beauty and peaceful atmosphere make it a wonderful respite from the city’s busier attractions. And who knows – you might find exactly the message you need in that good wishes box.
If you’ve got any queries or suggestions, drop them in the comments below. You can also tweet to me at @Atulmaharaj or DM @Atulmaharaj on Instagram or Get In Touch.
